A few things to consider before choosing a restoration company…

» Is the contractor licensed, bonded, and insured? In Arizona, a contractor must be licensed to legally perform jobs that require a building permit or when labor and materials for the project cost $1,000 or more. ( THIS INCLUDES WATER EXTRACTION, STRUCTURAL DRYING, AND MOLD REMOVAL )

» You may recover losses up to $30,000 through the Residential Contractors Recovery Fund that occur due to poor workmanship or non-performance, provided that you’re working with a properly licensed residential contractor and your paperwork is in order. You can call the Arizona Registrar of Contractors at 602-542-1525 or 1-877-MY AZROC (1-877-692-9762) or go to www.azroc.gov to check a contractors license and complaint history.

» Most of the testing and requirements needed to obtain a contractors license (in the state of Arizona) to perform water damage related services (such as water extraction, structural drying, and mold remediation) do not even touch upon those specific specialty skills. Testing for the “K5″ license, which most drying and mold remediation companies have, requires passing just the business management portion of the contractors test.

» Not only should the company or person you hire be licensed, bonded, and insured… they should also be “certified” in the services they are offering. The industry has certifying organizations that are accredited and recognized as the restoration industry’s standards and guidelines. Each of these organizations offer specific training, both hands on and instructor taught classes, and will require testing with passing test results at the end of each course in order to obtain the specific certification that is being applied for. The Institute of Inspection Cleaning and Restoration (IICRC) is one of the most recognized of the certifying organizations where these specialty certifications can be achieved.

» You should ask the person or company you are considering if they or their technicians are certified, and to bring their certification card upon arrival of an any inspection or quote for services. Each certification comes with an “ID” card that will state the specific skill set it was given for and a registrant number for tracking purposes. Every project should have at least ONE certified technician on-site at all times to supervise the work being rendered.

» Does the company your are considering offer a satisfaction guarantee in writing? Any company worth its salt will stand behind their product or service 110% and back it up with a guarantee. Click here to see ours.

» What is your first impression (either online, over the phone, or in person)? How is the overall appearance of the company’s representative(s) who arrive at your home or place of business? Are they in uniform? Is their uniform clean? Is their company vehicle neat and professional? Is the representative(s) knowledgeable? Do they take their time to answer your questions and go over solutions to resolve any issues or concerns? Do they make you feel comfortable and at ease or are they high pressure?

» Do they have any legitimate complaints, such as those with the Better Business Bureau or Registrar of Contractors?Discouraging enough as they are, internet complaints shouldn’t count due to the fact that anyone (such as competitors) can leave a negative remark in hopes to tarnish a company’s image. We say this because it has happened to us and is unfair and wrong. We have no unsatisfied customers to date and have references available upon request. This is why we offer a 100% satisfaction guarantee!

These are just a few things to consider before choosing a restoration company. We will be adding more to this list so please check back soon!

Spore?Tech Mold Investigations, LLC, a mold testing firm and laboratory in Louisville, KY challenged this myth by going to the source. This is what they found. Will chlorine bleach kill mold or not?yes or no? The answer is yes, but with a caveat. That answer comes from The Clorox Company, Oakland CA, manufacturer and distributor of Ultra Clorox? Regular Bleach. The company’s correspondence to Spore?Tech Mold Investigations, LLC stated that their Tech Center studies supported by independent laboratories show that “.3/4 cup of Clorox liquid bleach per gallon of water will be effective on hard, non-porous surfaces against. Aspergillus niger and Trichophyton mentagrophytes (Athlete’s Foot Fungus)”. Whether or not chlorine bleach kills other molds and fungi (such as stachybotris or chaetomium), the company did not say. The “hard, non-porous surfaces” part of the sentence is a caveat. Mold remediation involves the need to disinfect wood and wood-based building materials, all of which are porous materials. Thus, chlorine bleach should not be used in mold remediation as confirmed by OSHA’s and EPA’s updated recommendations and suggested guidelines. The use of bleach as a mold disinfectant is best left to kitchen and bathroom countertops, tubs and shower glass, etc.

The goal to remediating mold is not to simply “KILL” the mold, but to actually “REMOVE” the mold from the affected area. Accepted guidelines and standards have been set by agencies such as the Occupational Health and Safety Administration, The Environmental Protection Agency, and The Institute of Inspection, Cleaning, and Restoration. Following is an example of a basic mold remediation protocol.

Prep and Removal

 Containment barriers are to be established prior to any work being started. The area(s) will be contained with a barrier of no less than 4mil plastic and will be in place not only for containment of Microbial growth and Bacterial contaminants, but also for dust suppression methods for mediation of debris throughout the home and HVAC system (if needed).

 Additionally, the containment area will be placed under negative air conditions to further contain microbial growth and dust.  Air scrubbers will be in use during the remediation process and up to twelve (12) hours prior to any post remediation testing.

 Any drywall and/or plaster showing signs of water staining and/or mold growth will be removed to a minimum distance of one foot (1′) past the last visible signs of microbial growth and/or water damage. Drywall on adjoining walls will be removed to a distance of no less than one foot (1′) past the last visible signs of microbial growth and/or water damage (unless deemed salvageable by the project manager). Dust suppression methods will be used to control the dispersion of drywall dusts (negative air / air scrubbers) All cabinets and/or vanities that show signs of water damage and/or microbial activity will be removed and discarded if not deemed salvageable as part of the remediation process. Any affected tile that is on top of a subfloor will be removed to expose subfloor and subfloor will then be remediated, cleaned, and treated. 

 Wood framing (studs, sole plates, trusses and web members) will be treated with an abrasive method (Sanding, Soda Blasting, Dry Ice Blasting or Wire brushed) and then thoroughly cleaned with a HEPA vacuum, damp wiped, the HEPA vacuumed again. Any wood components that have been rotted through will be removed and replaced, rather than cleaned. All wood components will be treated with an anti-microbial / anti-bacterial agent. (Approved by industry standards).  For a list of EPA approved agents, please refer to their web site at http://www.epa.gov/.

 All insulation, if any, in the affected area will be removed and new insulation should be installed as part of the build back process.

Cleanup Practices

 In addition, all remaining smooth surfaces within the containment areas (and any other areas if necessary) will be wiped with an antimicrobial agent and all other surfaces HEPA vacuumed (then repeated) to aid in removal of residual debris containing hazardous particulates (Note: Hazardous is not limited to bacterial but also includes the dusts from uncontained work environments). It is recommended, but not required that the ductwork in the home should be flushed (cleaned) of all residue and all inlet outlet vents should be cleaned (unless determined to be contaminated through thorough mold testing).
 
 All debris within the work area will be contained in contractor grade (no less than 4 mil) plastic bags and properly disposed of.

Rebuild and Post Test

 At completion of remediation work, it is recommended that a post-remediation visual assessment be conducted to ensure complete remediation of contaminated building materials.  This should be performed by a third party entity and prior to any build back activities. This should consist of a visual inspection of all remediated areas, crevices and wall cavities. (where applicable)

 After satisfactory completion of the visual assessment we recommend that air samples are taken to judge the effectiveness of the cleanup activities. Release criteria for post-remediation mold sampling should be judged using Air-O-Cell (or similar) spore trap samples inside the building (amount as applicable) and one outdoor sample (as the baseline/control sample). The average of the outdoor sample collected will be used to compare to the indoor samples.

 Results from samples collected following any remediation activities should be analyzed by one who is qualified to interpret the test data in order to accurately deem a remediation project complete or not complete. 

Conclusion.

Laundry bleach is not an effective mold killing agent for porous building materials and NOT EFFECTIVE in the mold remediation process. OSHA is the first federal agency to announce a departure from the use of chlorine bleach in mold remediation. It is our opinion that in time, other federal, state and other public safety agencies will follow OSHA’s lead and the evidence from independent studies being conducted by industry leaders nation wide. The public should be aware, however, that a chlorine bleach solution IS an effective sanitizing product that kills mold on hard non porous surfaces and neutralizes indoor mold allergens that trigger allergies when used correctly.

It will be well worth your time to take a few extra moments every week to check potential trouble spots in and around your home. Early detection could mean the difference between a simple mop-up job and major construction repairs.

General Tips

• Check for hidden leaks by turning off faucets, all water-using appliances, and not flushing toilets for one hour. Record the water meter reading. If the flow indicator (triangular or diamond-shaped rotating button) is spinning or the meter reading has changed while no water is being used, a leaking pipe may exist.
• Know where the main water shut off valve is located in your home and check it frequently to make sure it is operational.

Inside Your Home

Water leaks can happen anywhere in the house, but they occur most frequently in the kitchen, bathroom and laundry rooms.

Kitchen

• Dishwasher – Periodically check under the sink to see if the hose connection to the water supply line is secure and is not leaking. Check around the base of the dishwasher for evidence of leaks. Look for discolored, warped, or soft flooring materials or water damage to nearby cabinets.
• Refrigerator – If your refrigerator has an icemaker, check the hose connection to make sure it is securely attached to the water supply line. The wet spot you see on the floor near the refrigerator may be melted ice cubes or it may be a crimped icemaker line about to burst.
• Sink – Recaulk around sinks and pay attention to slow-draining pipes. This may indicate a partially blocked drain. Check the pipes under the sink for signs of water leaks.

Bathroom

• Showers and bathtubs - Discoloration or soft areas around floors and walls near showers or bathtubs may be your first indication there is a leak. Check caulking at joints where the walls meet the floor or the bathtub, looking for cracks or mold. If either is found, clean and remove loose material and apply new sealant. If the shower walls or floor are tiled, a leak may develop if there are cracks or missing areas of grout.
• Sinks - Check under the sink for signs of leaks from water supply lines or drainpipes.
• Toilets - Placing inappropriate objects or too much toilet paper in the bowl can accidentally clog toilets, especially low-flow toilets now required in homes. Hanging bowl deodorants are frequently the culprits. These objects can lodge deep in the plumbing system, and can block the line or create an obstruction that grease and other materials can cling to – eventually causing blockage. In addition, some chlorine tablet cleaners may corrode some of the internal components, eventually leading to a leak.

Laundry/Utility Room

• Washing Machine - Inspect washing machine hoses regularly for wetness around hose ends and signs of bulging, cracking or fraying. Replace the hose if a problem is found or every three to five years as part of a proactive maintenance program.
• Water heater - Most water heaters last 10 to 15 years. Wet spots on the floor or a rusted tank may signal a problem. Hot water heaters should be installed on the lowest level of the home and always located next to a floor drain. If installed above or adjacent to finished spaces, the hot water heater should be placed inside a drain pan with the drain pan piped to the floor drain.
• Air conditioning - At the start of the cooling season, have the A/C system serviced by a qualified contractor. Make sure their service includes inspecting and cleaning the air conditioner condensation pan drain line to keep it free of obstructions. Change the air filters on a regular basis.

Basement

• Sump pump - Sump pump systems assist in keeping unwanted water out of your home. Battery-operated back-up sump pumps can offer a degree of protection against power failure or failure of the primary pump. A generator can also be used to power the pump in case of a power failure. Test the sump pump before the start of each wet season to ensure it is in working order. Sump pumps are not intended to last more than 10 years and must have some components replaced or serviced within those 10 years.

Outside Your Home

Leaking roofs, poor drainage, and clogged gutters and downspouts can lead to significant water damage inside your home.

General Tips

• Disconnect garden hoses from all spigots before the start of winter.
• Fill in any low spots around the house so water drains away from the foundation.
• Inspect caulking around windows and doors and replace as needed where cracked or deteriorated.
• Repaint wood siding as needed.

Roof

• Keep roof, valleys, gutters and downspouts free from buildup of leaves, twigs and other litter preventing proper drainage.
• Proper roof and eave ventilation may help extend the life of the roof by reducing the buildup of heat and moisture in the attic.
• Preservatives available for some types of roofs may help limit weathering effects of moisture and retard growth of molds and mosses.
• Avoid walking on a roof to limit wear and tear. Only necessary repairs or inspections should warrant walking on the roof.
• Keep trees trimmed to prevent them from rubbing against the roof or from providing excessive shade.
• Watch for these warning signs:
• Missing, curling, cupping, broken or cracked shingles.
• Damage or deterioration around the flashing at chimneys, vents and other junctions.
• Damage or deterioration in valley areas of the roof.
• Water stains on your ceiling. If possible, check your attic around flues, plumbing vents, and chimneys.
• Pooling or ponds of water that fail to drain from flat or low sloped roofs may indicate low areas and inadequate drainage.

Gutters/Downspouts

• Clean debris from your gutters and inspect them regularly.
• Consider purchasing gutter shields if your gutters frequently fill with debris.
• Downspouts should extend several feet away from the house to carry water away from the foundation.

Hardware that can help

Water leak detection systems can help you check for leaks when you can’t.

Water Alarms

This device is only beneficial if someone is inside the home, hears the alarm and takes action to stop the leak.

• These systems are typically battery-operated, stand-alone units. They are inexpensive and easy to install.
• A moisture sensor is located on the device and will activate an audible alarm when it senses moisture.
• Water alarms can be placed on the floor or they may be wall mounted.
• The water alarm should be located in high-risk areas such as under sinks and near appliances and equipment that use water.
• Water alarms range in cost from $8 to $45.

Individual Appliance Systems

• These systems are installed on a specific appliance and will automatically shut off the water supply in the event of a leak.
• Depending on the type of device, you may be able to install this system without any special tools. However, in some cases, a qualified plumber may be needed.
• Individual appliance systems range in cost from $50 to $150.

Whole-house Systems

• These systems feature a shut-off valve that is installed on the main water supply piping. When a leak is detected, the system will automatically shut off the entire water supply.
• Some models can be integrated with a local or central station security system.
  
• If you travel often, this type of system could offer you additional peace of mind while you are away from home.
• Whole-house systems typically take between four and six hours to install. They cost between $500 and $1,500 depending on labor rates and the size of the system.

Info by State Farm

Water in your home can come from many sources. Water can enter your home by leaking or by seeping through basement floors. Showers or even cooking can add moisture to the air in your home. The amount of moisture that the air in your home can hold depends on the temperature of the air. As the temperature goes down, the air is able to hold less moisture. This is why, in cold weather, moisture condenses on cold surfaces (for example, drops of water form on the inside of a window). This moisture can encourage biological pollutants to grow.

There are many ways to control moisture in your home:

• Fix leaks and seepage. If water is entering the house from the outside, your options range from simple landscaping to extensive excavation and waterproofing. (The ground should slope away from the house.) Water in the basement can result from the lack of gutters or a water flow toward the house. Water leaks in pipes or around tubs and sinks can provide a place for biological pollutants to grow.

• Put a plastic cover over dirt in crawlspaces to prevent moisture from coming in from the ground. Be sure crawlspaces are well-ventilated.

• Use exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens to remove moisture to the outside (not into the attic). Vent your clothes dryer to the outside.

• Turn off certain appliances (such as humidifiers or kerosene heaters) if you notice moisture on windows and other surfaces.

• Use dehumidifiers and air conditioners, especially in hot, humid  climates, to reduce moisture in the air, but be sure that the appliances themselves don’t become sources of biological pollutants.

• Raise the temperature of cold surfaces where moisture condenses. Use insulation or storm windows. (A storm window installed on the inside works better than one installed on the outside.) Open doors between rooms (especially doors to closets which may be colder than the rooms) to increase circulation. Circulation carries heat to the cold surfaces. Increase air circulation by using fans and by moving furniture from wall corners to promote air and heat circulation. Be sure that your house has a source of fresh air and can expel excessive moisture from the home.

• Pay special attention to carpet on concrete floors. Carpet can absorb moisture and serve as a place for biological pollutants to grow. Use area rugs which can be taken up and washed often. In certain climates, if carpet is to be installed over a concrete floor, it may be necessary to use a vapor barrier (plastic sheeting) over the concrete and cover that with sub-flooring (insulation covered with plywood) to prevent a moisture problem.

• Moisture problems and their solutions differ from one climate to another. The Northeast is cold and wet; the Southwest is hot and dry; the South is hot and wet; and the Western Mountain states are cold and dry. All of these regions can have moisture problems. For example, evaporative coolers used in the Southwest can encourage the growth of biological pollutants. In other hot regions, the use of air conditioners which cool the air too quickly may prevent the air conditioners from running long enough to remove excess moisture from the air. The types of construction and weatherization for the different climates can lead to different problems and solutions.

 Info resource : www.epa.gov/mold/moldresources.html

Every Home Should Have at Least One Working Smoke Alarm

Buy a smoke alarm at any hardware or discount store. It’s inexpensive protection for you and your family. Install a smoke alarm on every level of your home. A working smoke alarm can double your chances of survival. Test it monthly, keep it free of dust and replace the battery at least once a year. Smoke alarms themselves should be replaced after ten years of service, or as recommended by the manufacturer.

More than 4,000 Americans die each year in fires and approximately 20,000 are injured. An overwhelming number of fires occur in the home. There are time-tested ways to prevent and survive a fire. It’s not a question of luck. It’s a matter of planning ahead.

Prevent Electrical Fires

Never overload circuits or extension cords. Do not place cords and wires under rugs, over nails or in high traffic areas. Immediately shut off and unplug appliances that sputter, spark or emit an unusual smell. Have them professionally repaired or replaced.

Use Appliances Wisely

When using appliances follow the manufacturer’s safety precautions. Overheating, unusual smells, shorts and sparks are all warning signs that appliances need to be shut off, then replaced or repaired. Unplug appliances when not in use. Use safety caps to cover all unused outlets, especially if there are small children in the home.

Alternate Heaters

• Portable heaters need their space. Keep anything combustible at least three feet away.
• Keep fire in the fireplace. Use fire screens and have your chimney cleaned annually. The creosote buildup can ignite a chimney fire that could easily spread.
• Kerosene heaters should be used only where approved by authorities. Never use gasoline or camp-stove fuel. Refuel outside and only after the heater has cooled.

Affordable Home Fire Safety Sprinklers

When home fire sprinklers are used with working smoke alarms, your chances of surviving a fire are greatly increased. Sprinklers are affordable – they can increase property value and lower insurance rates.

Plan Your Escape

Practice an escape plan from every room in the house. Caution everyone to stay low to the floor when escaping from fire and never to open doors that are hot. Select a location where everyone can meet after escaping the house. Get out then call for help.

Caring for Children

Children under five are naturally curious about fire. Many play with matches and lighters. Tragically, children set over 20,000 house fires every year. Take the mystery out of fire play by teaching your children that fire is a tool, not a toy.

Caring for Older People

Every year over 1,200 senior citizens die in fires. Many of these fire deaths could have been prevented. Seniors are especially vulnerable because many live alone and can’t respond quickly.

Info Resource from link below:

http://www.usfa.dhs.gov/citizens/all_citizens/home_fire_prev/